Kritika Batra

March 23, 2018

Kashmir: Discovering Paradise

Kritika Batra

March 23, 2018

I must have planned over a hundred journeys for travellers to Kashmir, but it had been over three years since I personally experienced what is popularly known as Paradise on Earth. Inspired by my travellers stories and all their beautiful photographs, I decided to embark on a 10 day journey through Kashmir with a single objective in mind, the one that follows me on all my travels: To discover and share India's best kept secrets in terms of stays and local experiences.

Sweet welcome to Srinagar with Kahwa and stunning views :)

EXPLORING SRINAGAR

I arrived in Srinagar on a sunny winter afternoon. As the locals would tell me later, I brought sunshine with me as it had been raining and snowing in Srinagar for the past week. Soon after arriving there, my memories from my last trip to Kashmir came back to mind. The sight of familiar roads, men clad in phirans and all the Chinar trees, made for a comforting welcome.

Srinagar is one of the most touristy places in India, no doubt. So the idea of finding secrets in this tourist hub got me all excited from the moment I landed. While I kept the journey plan completely open and spontaneous, I was sure of some of the things I definitely wanted to explore in Srinagar - Staying on a houseboat, Exploring the Old parts of town, Finding new cafes and restaurants run by locals and Discovering some charming stays.

ROYALTY ON A HOUSEBOAT

As we arrived at the lake shore, Yusuf, our shikara man greeted us and off we went on his charming boat towards our home for the next three days - a royal houseboat anchored on the banks of Nigeen lake. My view was a serene lake with a backdrop of snow covered peaks, exactly what I had imagined before I came to Kashmir.

My partner, Ayush, soaking in the views :)

The houseboat was beautifully designed with stunning Kashmiri kaalins (carpets) and wooden ceilings, locally referred to as Khatambandh - a simple, yet intricate combination of geometric wood pieces. Everything about the boat was royal - from the decor to the view to the service.

We soon learned that the boat has been home to many a celebrities including Mick Jagger and Michael Jackson and the boat owner proudly showed us a photograph of his grandfather and Jagger on the same boat from the 80's, all adding to making us feel like true royalty.

Our boat was centrally heated, which was essential considering it was 5 degrees outside and our boat captain named Javed made sure he kept it running at all times. He could tell by our shivers that we were going to need it.

He did everything on the boat from keeping it clean to making sure our meals were served on time and our beds were warmed up with hot water bottles at night. He seemed like a very happy man, completely disconnected from the politics of the valley and happy to be amidst beautiful views and friendly travellers.

His smile was infectious and it did not disappear even for a single moment in the three days we spent on the boat.

URBAN EXPLORATIONS

We spent our days in Srinagar exploring the local markets and new cafes and restaurants in town. I was surprised to see how many cool cafes have opened up here. Most of them are owned by young Kashmiris who have returned to Srinagar after studying and living abroad. It's lovely to see that they have come back here and setup such nice hang out spots in the city.

A beautiful tea room serving Kashmiri kahwa, cakes and snacks.

Tea, crepes and fresh cookies at the tea room.

My favourite cafe in Srinagar! Books and Bricks - the perfect hang-out spot!

Another beautiful experience was wandering through the narrow lanes of Old Srinagar. A few locals had warned us about this part of town as it's most prone to protests, usually on Fridays, but it wasn't a Friday and we were up for the adventure! My trusted driver Shoukat, who I've been working with for the last few years, took us around the Old City, dropping us off to explore the narrow lanes, old houses and crowded markets on our own by foot. He would be waiting to pick us at the end of our walks at pre-decided meeting points, which made us feel really safe.

charming stays

This is the part of my work I enjoy the most - finding unique, off the beaten track places to stay. Kashmir, without much surprise, is home to many a stunning properties. Here's a snippet of a few of the charming stays I discovered during my time in Srinagar. To find more details on these properties and others in Kashmir, hop onto the KASHMIR PAGE.

EXPLORING GULMARG

After our urban explorations we decided to make our way to the snowy slopes of Gulmarg to spend a few days amidst stunning landscapes and freezing, below zero temperatures. The drive from Srinagar to Gulmarg is beautiful. Once you're out of the city, the path is studded with walnut, apple and cherry orchards which were not in bloom at this time of the year, but I can only imagine what it would look like in May and June when everything in Kashmir is blooming. The town right before Gulmarg is called Tanmarg and once we crossed that, there was four to five feet of snow on both sides of the road, making our journey up to slopes stunning!

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

1. SAFETY

The biggest concern for most travellers going to Kashmir is safety, however my time in Kashmir reinforced my belief that tourists are absolutely safe there. There are a few things to keep in mind -

1. If you're exploring Srinagar on a Friday, avoid wandering through Old Srinagar, as that is the area most susceptible to violence. It occurs in the form of protests and stone pelting, but please remember that this is only restricted to a few streets of Old Srinagar, the rest of the city remains unaffected. So roam freely, but in the new parts of town like Raj Bagh, Dal Lake, Nigeen Lake, etc.

2. One of the areas that sees a lot of tension is Anantnag, which lies on the highway connecting Srinagar and Pahalgam. Ensure that you have a good, local driver with you on this journey to ensure that if protests are going on in Anantnag, he can safely re-route you through areas that are safe. I work closely with a group of drivers that are excellent navigators through Kashmir, so get in touch with me to plan a smooth, hassle free journey :)

2. GETTING AROUND

I highly recommend hiring a reliable driver for the entire journey who in addition to taking you around, will be your local guardian to ensure all is safe and smooth during your journey. If you're planning to head out of Srinagar to Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg, keep the car and driver with you in case of any emergencies.

The high numbers of touts and the strength of the local transport unions can be a nuisance while travelling through Kashmir. For example, if you hire a car from Srinagar to Gulmarg, that car is restricted to the hotel where you're staying and cannot take you for local sight-seeing or activities within Gulmarg. For that, you need to do it by foot, or hire a local vehicle from there. The same rule applies to Pahalgam. While this can be quite annoying, there's no way around it. You have to be patient and remember that every place has its ways :)

3. WHERE TO STAY

While Srinagar has a plethora of unique homestays, guest houses and luxury hotels to choose from, the other parts of Kashmir don't offer a wide variety of good, boutique stays. It's either old luxury hotels that are way too overpriced in season time, or very local guest houses. But not to worry, because that's what I do - find unique, hidden stay options wherever I can :) I have found and curated a list of boutique stays in Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg that are in the range of Rs. 3,000 - Rs. 10,000 per night and offer an excellent stay and overall experience.

Kashmir definitely blew my mind and I would highly recommend you experience it too! To plan a beautiful journey to Paradise on Earth, get in touch with me at kritika@wanderbug.in. Visit the KASHMIR PAGE for more ideas.

Far away from the tourists, I found a river just for me :)

Kritika Batra

March 10, 2017

Kerala: Soul-Soothing Experiences

Kritika Batra

March 10, 2017

There are some places in India that are very close to my heart. One of them is Kumaon in Uttarakhand and the other is Kerala. My frequent visits to both these places have given me a sense of oneness with them. As soon as I arrive, I know exactly where I am and where I need to go and the familiarity is heart warming.

This time as soon as I landed in Kerala, I went straight to my favourite cafe, Oy's cafe in Fort Kochi. After a few hours of wandering the streets of Fort Kochi, I got right to work and started my exploration of Kerala with three objectives in mind - Explore a hidden beach, find a secret backwater retreat and scout out soul-soothing experiences in God's Own Country.

In my happy place - Oy's Cafe in Fort Kochi

1. Explore a hidden beach

After a quick pit stop at Fort Kochi, I made my way to Marari beach where I spent two days beach-bumming, relaxing at a beautiful beach villa and learning about local practices from the fishermen of the adjoining village. I have to say that Marari beach is one of the cleanest beaches I have seen in India and I was surprised to find soft, powdery white sand. The beach villa where I stayed was located 5 kms from the main Marari beach, far away from the crowds, and amidst clean waters and white sand, giving me two days of absolute peace and serenity.

2. Find a secret backwater retreat

While I came across various backwater retreats in Allepey and Kumarakom, the one that blew my mind was located far away from the touristy places, on a quiet stretch of the backwaters somewhere between Allepey and Kochi. I am convinced that this place is by far one of my most stunning finds! From the moment I reached the jetty (the island is only accessible by boat) and spotted the cute blue boat, my heart lit up and I knew I had found the perfect hideaway in Kerala.

The boatman, Shaji rowed me to the retreat located on a peaceful stretch of the backwaters. Once I arrived there and looked around, the reality and the beauty of the place sunk in and I knew that the next two days on this secret island would be absolutely stunning!

Arriving at the island in this cute blue boat

I spent my days cruising on the backwaters chasing sunrise and sunsets, getting Ayurvedic massages, and walking through the local villages. The rest of the time I just lazed around and napped, ate yummy freshly cooked meals and meditated on the small pier on the backwaters. My experience at the retreat was nothing short of amazing and the lovely team at the place made sure every minute I spent here was fantastic :)

3. Scout soul soothing experiences

Sometimes my work demands that I experience things that I might not personally choose to do. I do these things anyway, just to ensure that my travellers who wish to do certain activities have the most stunning and flawless experiences. Allepey, known for its houseboats and backwaters, is something most travellers want to experience in Kerala, so I decided to add that to my trip, keeping in mind that amidst the commercial madness of this place, I must find a hidden, soulful experience.

I started the day on a houseboat, but got off it as soon as I was done documenting it for my website. I took a smaller boat to explore the narrow canals, hoping it would lead me to less frequented parts of the backwaters, but I was wrong. After exactly 20 minutes of being on the boat (I was supposed to be on it for 2 hours), I asked the boatman if he could take me off the main route and somewhere where I could experience something more authentic. While he pondered on where to take me, I shamelessly asked him if he would take me to his village on the backwaters.

Hesitant at first, he humbly agreed and off we went to his village with mango orchards and golden rice fields. I was glad I found a piece of Allepey where there were no tourists, just lush farms and blue skies! I left Allepey happy and satisfied, knowing I had experienced something magical!

Golden paddy fields hidden away in Allepey

A big thanks to my hosts Olga and Maneesha for hosting me at their retreats that they have created with so much love and passion!

I will cherish the memories of my journey to your properties for a long time and hope to inspire many more Wanderbug's to experience the beauty that you have created in Kerala :)

Kritika Batra

February 17, 2017

Kumaon: Another stunning find!

Kritika Batra

February 17, 2017

It is now somewhat of a ritual - an annual trip to Kumaon. While most of my previous journeys have taken me to Kumaon in the monsoon or summer months, this time I decided to go there in the peak of winter to enjoy a few days of freezing mountain air combined with cozy pahadi hospitality.

My adventure through the hills took me to Shyamkhet, a quaint village located near Bhowali where I spent my days at a charming homestay nestled amidst a dense forest.

Blessed to be welcomed by cold, mountain rain :)

ABOUT THE STAY

I arrived at the house in the afternoon after a quick and easy train journey from Delhi, followed by a 1.5 hour drive through roads that have become such familiar territory after all my trips through Kumaon. I love how I know and recognise all the roads in this part of the hills :) Makes me feel right at home.

Once I arrived at the house, I was greeted by the beautiful mascots of the house - Raja, Cyber and Lama. Raja is truly the king of the house and demands undivided attention and lots of biscuits and love :) The staff at the property welcomed me warmly and showed me to my room for the next three days - the outhouse cottage with my private room, small living room and sit-out.

The out-house - my sweet home for three days

The owners of the house Uttam and Shalini were travelling and could not host me personally. Even in their absence, each and every corner of the house was so well looked after that I could tell how much care and attention the owners give to their house.

The main house has three bedrooms, a living room, a TV room, a study area and a stunning glass observatory where I spent most of my days looking out at the mountains. The house offers a huge lawn to sit out, lots of walks around the property and a fire pit for cozy fires under the star-lit sky.

THE ROOMS

The house has 3 rooms in the main house and 2 rooms in the outhouse. Each rooms is simply decorated with a very charming and aesthetically pleasing feel. Wooden floors and ceilings, glass windows, subtle lighting and balconies offering lovely views of the surrounding mountains.

The outhouse has two attached rooms, a small living room, a bathroom, kitchenette and beautiful front porch. It opens up into a big sit-out where you can light a fire and enjoy the starry sky at night.

But the highlight of the house for me was definitely the stunning glass observatory. The room is beautifully constructed with wood and glass, is adorned with sweet bougainvillea plants and interesting curious collected by the owners from their travels all around the world. It really is the ideal place to sit back and enjoy all the mountain goodness around you - It's the kind of place that you never want to leave!

THE CREW

The house has three crew members - Prakash, Basant and Madhavi. While Prakash cooks up some delicious food for you, Basant and his wife Madhavi ensure you have everything that you need from ginger chai at any time of day, to making fires at night. They work hard to ensure that all is kept clean and tidy and that the gardens remain full of flowers and lush greenery for you!

The three dogs at the property are also a crucial part of the team - Raja, Cyber and Lama. From the moment you enter the house to the time you leave, they greet all the travellers with so much love and warmth and expect a biscuit each for being such good boys!

From left to right: Prakash, Madhavi and Basant

HOW I SPENT MY DAYS AT SHYAMKHET

While I spent most of my time reading and relaxing in the gorgeous glass observatory, I spent my mornings and evening walking around the surrounding mountain trails, bird watching and meeting locals.

Tea Estates along one of my mountain trails

On one of my walks around Shyamkhet, I stumbled upon a small shop called Sunlit Paths that sells products from Auroville and Pondicherry. There I met Kanika, a beautiful little girl who was helping her mother run the shop. Usually she's at school in the day, but it was holiday time in the mountains because of the cold, and this sweet little girl was spending her vacation helping her mom.

Sunlit Paths - a shop selling products from Auroville and Pondicherry

What I loved about my trip to Kumaon this time was the charming cafes I discovered. Over the last few years that I've been visiting this region, I felt that it was missing some nice cafes and hang out spaces, but that's not the case anymore. I found two, relatively new cafes, one on the Bhimtal-Bhowali road and other in Naukuchiatal. Both places are amazing and provide the perfect setting for a nice cup of coffee, fresh baked goods and beautiful views!

A big shout out to Shalini and Uttam for hosting me at their charming abode and ALLOWING ME TO EXPERIENCE THIS STUNNING SECRET OF KuMaOn :)

TO PLAN YOUR JOURNEY TO THIS BEAUTIFUL STAY IN KUMAON OR ANYWHERE ELSE IN UTTARAKHAND, CONTACT ME AT KRITIKA@WANDERBUG.IN

Kritika Batra

May 5, 2016

Kasauli: A Boutique Resort

Kritika Batra

May 5, 2016

In May, this year, I made a quick trip to the lush hills of Kasauli in Himachal Pradesh. Located an easy six hours from Delhi by road, I borrowed my sisters car one morning and off I went to the mountains to explore this hidden gem I knew of - a luxury, boutique resort located amidst the pine forests of Kasauli.

ABOUT THE STAY

Set amidst beautiful pine forests of the Kasauli Hills, this resort is a gorgeous mountain hideaway ideal for those who love luxury and nature. The resort is located 20 minutes from the main town of Kasauli, ideally situated away from the main tourist hub where travellers can enjoy a few days of mountain serenity and peace.

Originally built as a summer house to designer Nila Mehta and family from Delhi, the owners slowly realised that they would like to share the beauty of their home and the Kasauli Hills with travellers from all over the world. With this intention in mind, the owner along with her family came up with the idea of opening up their estate and their home to discerning travellers.

Today, they have 12 beautiful designed rooms that welcome luxury travellers to enjoy a few days of magic and comfort in the mountains. There is a tv lounge, a reading room, indoor and outdoor dining areas, lawns for you to sit around and gaze at the beautiful hills and private balconies with each room.

One of the gorgeous sit-out's at the resort

THE ROOMS

There are 12 rooms at the property spread over three buildings. Three rooms in the main house, five rooms in one wing and four in the adjacent wing. While the main house is the oldest building with a castle like structure, the other two wings are newly built. All 12 rooms are elegantly designed with wooden floors, comfortable beds, large glass windows overlooking the forests, private sit-outs and vibrant upholstery. There is tv lounge at the resort where guests can watch what they like along with a reading lounge full of interesting books to keep you occupied.

THE CREW

There are five crew members you'll find at the resort at all time. While Karan manages guest relations, Prem, the head chef dedicates his time to cook up the most delicious meals for you. Be it Indian, continental, Italian or Chinese, Prem is an excellent cook who has learnt his skills thanks to years of experience and his culinarily trails around the world.

Mohan, Pawan and Chaman help your with anything you need at the resort and leave no stone intruded to ensure you have everything you need during your stay. The crew is accompanied by three absolute gems - aaloo, bhindi and lauki who are ever ready to play with you and ensure your safety and comfort by keeping wild monkeys away :)

WANDERBUG VERDICT

An amazing space for big groups of friends and families (10-15 people) looking for a quick getaway from Delhi and Chandigarh. Absolutely love the tasteful decor and the charming green spaces surrounding the house. The sit-out's and the outdoor breakfast set-up is magical!

The perfect place to sit back and enjoy the views

TO BOOK YOUR STAY AT THIS BEAUTIFUL RESORT IN KASAULI, CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE PAGE >>>

A BIG SHOUT OUT TO MY HOST, ANIRUDDHA FOR EXTENDING SUCH WARM HOSPITALITY AND ALLOWING ME TO EXPERIENCE THIS STUNNING SECRET OF KASAULI :)

Kritika Batra

April 30, 2016

Shimla: Discovering its secrets

Kritika Batra

April 30, 2016

Shimla, also known as the queen of hills, is by far one of the most popular hill stations in India. Every summer, thousands of tourists flock to the British summer capital for a few days of cool mountain air and breathtaking views.

Amidst this busy hill station, there are still secrets to be discovered, especially when it comes to boutique stays. During my recent trip to Shimla, I had the fortune to experience two spectacular stays - a beautiful cottage perched on top of a hill behind the famous church and a charming, luxury homestay located away from the town.

1. COTTAGE ON THE HILL

Owned by Karandip and Nawaz Sandhu, a sweet couple from Chandigarh, the Cottage on the Hill is a beautiful space full of flowering gardens, lush greenery, warm and cosy rooms and breathtaking views of the church and snow clad Himalayas. The location of the house is just perfect, far enough from the maddening crowds, but also close enough for short walks through the famous mall road and the ridge. The house is ideally located above the church, making it a quiet haven of peace amidst the otherwise loud and chaotic streets of the summer capital.

THE ROOMS

The cottage has 4 rooms and 1 family suite. Each room is beautiful decorated with a very aesthetically pleasing feel. Wooden floors and ceilings, massive glass windows, subtle lighting and balconies offering lovely views of the church peeping though the tall pine trees.

The family suite has one double room, on the ground level, one on the attic level and an additional attached single bedrooms, making it an ideal space for families or a small group of friends.

The entrance to the family suite - my room at the cottage :)

THE CREW

The house has four crew members, all working towards ensuring your stay is a memorable one. While Maya cooks up some delicious food for you, Prakash, Prem and Maali Bhaiya ensure you have anything that you need. They work hard to ensure that all is kept clean and tidy and that the gardens remain full of flowers and lush greenery for you! Their efforts combine to make your stay a special one :)

Manager Prem, Maali bhaiya, Maya didi and Prakash.

WANDERBUG VERDICT

The Cottage is an amazing space for big groups of friends and families (10-15 people) looking for a quick getaway from Delhi and Chandigarh. Absolutely love the tasteful decor and the charming green spaces surrounding the house.

TO BOOK YOUR STAY AT THIS BEAUTIFUL COTTAGE, CHECK OUT THE WEBSITE PAGE >>>

2. FAIRYTALE HOME

Originally built in 1890 when Mr. Kitchlu came to Shimla to work with the British government, the cottage still exudes an old world charm with all the comforts needed to make your stay enjoyable and absolutely wonderful! The hostess, Madhavi who now owns and runs the show at the cottage is a beautiful soul with extensive knowledge about various flora around her estate and does not hesitate to share this knowledge with her guests while she takes them on strolls around the estate. She's a true flower child happy amidst the wilderness and the serenity of her gorgeous estate.

In full bloom right outside my window :)

THE ROOMS

There are 4 rooms at the cottage, each done up in the most charming and aesthically pleasing manner. Wooden floors and ceilings, Windows offering stunning views of the the surrounding forest and the flower filled garden, antique wooden furniture, gorgeous floral apholstery, that all adds up to make you feel like you're still living in the colonial times. Every room has a study because you're bound to be inspired to write, draw or read whilst your stay at the estate.

The house has a spacious living room overlooking the garden, a small tv lounge and a dining area where the hostess serves her guests some delicious home-cooked meals with ingredients sourced from her own estate. Whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner, each and every meal is well thought of and served with utmost care and passion, making every meal a culinary delight!

THE HOSTESS

Originally from Delhi, Madhavi moved to Shimla five years ago to care for the estate that her great-grand aunt left behind. When she got here, the house was in shambles and the locals would refer to it as Bhoot Bangla because it was a an absolute wreck. She took it upon herself to fix up the place and has now successfully transformed this abandoned estate into a magical, flower filled estate that seems to be right out of fairytale! Madhavi lives on the estate with her soul friend and cook, Madhu who moved with her from Delhi, the care-taker Motilal and her three dogs - Bhusa singh, Bholu and sweety and one cat named Milkha. All their energies and efforts combine to make this a truly magical and unforgettable experience :)

Madhavi along with Bhusa Singh and Bholu

WANDERBUG VERDICT

The cottage is ideal for couples and solo travellers who are looking for a quiet and authentic homestay experience in the mountains. The house is perfect for writers and artists looking for a few days of solo time to dedicate to their creative skills. The flowers filled, magical gardens, the charming rooms, the food and everything about the house is bound to inspire you!